Every man needs a good selection of shirts in his wardrobe. That much is clear. What’s not so clear is the exact form those shirts should take.
The solution, as it almost always is, is to stick to the classics; the tried-and-trusted shirting staples that have never gone (nor will ever go) out of fashion. Doing this will allow you to build a capsule shirt collection that has you covered for every conceivable occasion, looking your best at all times.
Whether you’re heading for a wedding or sipping cocktails by the poolside, these are the key shirt styles you’ll always find yourself reaching for.
The Classic OCBD
The Oxford-cloth button-down shirt (OCBD for short) is a type of casual shirt cut from a basketweave fabric known as Oxford cloth. It gets the other half of its name from the buttons that hold the collar in place. It’s thicker than a classic formal shirt with a more textured look and feel, making it perfect for bridging the gap between smart and casual.
Why you need it
It’s the glue that holds your wardrobe together.
How to wear it
The OCBD is so versatile that it would be quicker to tell you how not to wear it. Suffice to say, it’s difficult to get wrong, but as a frame of reference, we’d advise against wearing it with anything more formal than soft tailoring and anything as casual as sportswear. Within those limits, pretty much anything goes.
The Camp-Collar Short-Sleeved Shirt
What is it?
This summery staple is the key type of short sleeve shirt that should be hanging in your wardrobe. It features a spread collar for a relaxed, breezy look and can be either plain, patterned or sometimes decorated with an intricate all-over print.
Why you need it
If you have to ask, you’ve obviously never sauntered along a Mediterranean beach while wearing one unbuttoned to half-mast as it flaps gently around your torso in the breeze.
How to wear it
As a rule of thumb, save your camp collar shirts for summer and spring. They’re great with shorts and can be worn either open over a T-shirt or singlet, or loosely buttoned up and worn on their own. Team one with cuffed jeans or cropped trousers and loafers in the evening, or even layer under a summer suit in place of a regular shirt for dressier warm-weather events.
The Cotton Twill Overshirt
What is it?
Falling somewhere between a shirt and a jacket, this evergreen essential is made from thick cotton twill and usually features a button fastening and several patch pockets to the front. It’s a longtime workwear staple and is among the most versatile garments in any wardrobe.
Why you need it
It’s one of the few garments that will have your back no matter the season – a true layering hero piece.
How to wear it
How you style your overshirt will depend largely on the season. In summer, it’s great for throwing on as a light jacket on cooler evenings and looks great worn open with the sleeves cuffed over a well-fitting white tee and chino shorts.
During the colder months, it becomes a stylish midlayer. Try wearing one over a roll-neck jumper and raw denim jeans, topping it off with some winterproof outerwear and sturdy leather boots.
The Flannel Shirt
What is it?
It’s thick, it’s warm and it’s ideal for layering up when the weather starts to bite. The flannel shirt is a casual classic and a must for your autumn/winter rotation. Woven from wool or cotton, flannel fabric is soft and slightly raised, making it comfortable and great for insulation in colder temperatures.
Why you need it
For keeping the chill at bay in style. Also, for making you look a little bit more lumberjack-esque, which is rarely a bad thing.
How to wear it
Flannel shirts can be either plain or printed, which will influence how you wear it. For classic checked versions, however, jeans and leather boots are the obvious way to go. That said, part of the flannel shirt’s appeal is its versatility, meaning it will go just as well with chinos or even dress pants if you style it with the right footwear. But one thing you should always steer clear of is pairing it with tailoring – this is strictly a casual garment and should be styled as such.
The Denim Shirt
What is it?
Unsurprisingly, a denim shirt is pretty much any shirt cut from the same stuff as your jeans. It’s robust, great for layering, and if you go for raw denim, it will take on a rich patina and unique fades as it ages and moulds to your body.
Why you need it
It’s one of the simplest ways to add a dose of texture to your weekend wardrobe.
How to wear it
Denim shirts have a reputation for being difficult to style. In our experience, this tends to stem from the fact that jeans are the world’s default casual legwear and wearing both together can result in some pretty unsightly looks. But that’s only if you get the shades too close. Ensure there’s enough of a contrast between top and bottom and you can’t really go wrong. Think white jeans and a dark blue denim shirt, for example – double denim done right.